Chef Talk with Kyle Cherek - Robert Druschitz / Recipe Demo

Recipe Focus, Some Old Kendall Charcuterie Recipes

Duck Galantine

Yield: 8 galantines

16 whole ducks, 3# lean pork, 3# fatback, 2 sliced onion, 4 oz. port, 8 oz. Madeira, 3 sprigs thyme, 20 finely chopt sage leaves, 1 orange’s zest, 1 c. duck glace, 40 g. salt, 12 g. black pepper, 55 g. pink salt, 1 t. quarte epices, 4 oz. white wine, 1 oz. brandy, pistachios, truffle pieces, small dice ham

Bone 8 ducks for galantine, keep skin & meat intact.  Even out meat by trimming out excess duck & transferring to areas that doesn’t have meat (can also pound out).  Bone out the other ducks, keeping the leg & breast meat separate.  Saute onions in butter until translucent.  Add the port, Madeira, & thyme – reduce by ¾.  Let cool.  Combine leg meat, ¼ breast meat, lean pork, fatback, onion mix, sage, zest, s/p, pink salt, quarte epices, white wine & brandy, & let marinade 24 hours.  Marinade the ¾ remaining duck breast (ea. breast cut in half lengthwise), and duck skin w/ a sprinkle of salt mix [12 g. salt : 3 g. white pepper : 7 g. pink salt] in cooler for 24 hours.  Grind the pork & duck mix w/ 1/8” die.  Over ice, add glace, pistachios, ham, & truffles.  Test in sauté to check seasoning.  Prepare the galantine, putting the reserved breasts in the center as integral garnish.  Wrap in cheesecloth & poach in flavorful stock until internal temp 152*F.  Remove galantines from liquid, cool liquid, then re-add galantines.  Refrigerate 24 hours before using.

 

Basic Country Pate

A: 3.5# strips lean pork butt, 5# strips pork fatback, 2 large onions-sliced, sautéed & chilled, ¼ c. minced garlic-sauteed & chilled, 1 qt. white wine, 2 T. chopt thyme, 2 bay leaf, 4 t. ground black pepper, 1 ½ quatre epices, 1 t. celery salt, 2 t. sugar, 1.5 oz pink salt, splash brandy, 65 g. salt. 

Marinade 24 hours in fridge, drain in colander & pat dry.  Grind cold w/ 3/16 in. die.  Chill

B: 1.5 # lean pork butt 

 

Scallop Mousse

1 1/2# sea scallop (dry pack, wings removed, & pre-salt), 1 egg, 1+ qt. cream

Process scallop in chilled robocoupe untilit gets smooth & starts to ball up.  Add egg & process until it becomes a smooth paste. Check temp., if too warm throw into freezer.  Add a small amount of cream (~1 c.) to the coupe, pouring slowly.  Process until elastic.  Check temp.  Continue adding cream until a total of 3 c. has been added.  Check a quenelle in simmering water.  Keep adding cream until mousse is nicely light.  If in terrine, cover & bake @ 250*F until 135*F internal temp.  About 1.5 hours.  Chill in ice.

Variation: Pike Mousse

2# pike, 2 egg, 1+qt. cream

Grind pike through 1/8” die.  Proceed as for scallop mousse.

 

Lobster Forcemeat

1 ½ # pike meat, ½ # diced lobster meat (cooked), bisque reduction, 2 eggs, 8 oz. cream, chopt tarragon, s/p

Process pike meat.  Add eggs & cream, process smooth.  Add bisque redux, blend then pass through bang.  Fold in tarragon & lobster meat.  Flavor check, adjust seasoning.

 

Mushroom Terrine

3 qt. mushrooms- ¼’d or whole if small, ¼ c. minced shallot, 2 T. minced celery, 1 clove minced garlic, ¼ c. brandy, ¼ c. white wine, ¼ c. Madeira, olive oil, 2 c. demi, aspic (neutral, chix, beef, or vegetable/mushroom)

Saute aromatics.  Reserve.  Saute mushrooms until nicely browned, & cooked through.  Add aromatics to shrooms, along w/ wines.  Cook to au sec.  Add demi, reduce to glaze.  Season, then cool.  Line terrine w/ plastic.  Put some chilled aspic on bottom of terrine, followed by a layer of shrooms, more aspic, shrooms, etc, until finished.  Cover w/ excess plastic, chill for 12 hours before serving.

 

Marinade for Smoked Duck

4 crushed garlic cloves, 2 c. mirpoix, ¼ c. rice vinegar, 1 T. chili paste, ½ c. molasses, ½ c. soy, ¼ c. brown sugar, ½ c. cider vinegar, 2 c. water, 4 pc. star anise, 20 black pepper corns.

 

Hot Dogs

4.5 # fat free cow meat, 2# +4 oz. lean pork butt, 2# +4 oz trimmed pork jowls, 2# +6 oz. ice chips, 4 oz. soy protein concentrate, 2 t. Prague # 1, 6 T. salt, 2 ½ T. Spanish paprika, 5 T. ground mustard, 1 t. black pepper, 2 t. white pepper, 1 t. ground celery seed, 2 t. mace, 1 t. garlic powder, 1 T. onion powder, 1 t. ground coriander, 1 ½ oz. corn syrup solids, 3 ½ T. pink salt

Grind cold meat w/ ½ in. plate.  Add salt & Prague #1.  Chill 24 hours.  Grind fat w/ ½ in. plate, chill.  Grind fat & meat separately with 1/16 in. plate, chill.  In chilled buffalo chopper, add meat w/ ½ ice.  Grind until meat gets stringy—do not let temp. rise above 45*.  Add fat, spices, and remaining ice.  Continue grinding until temp rises to no higher than 58* (54-58 optimal).  When mix is at 52* add soy powder.  Pack into 24-26 mm. sheep casings, Age one day, poach until 152* internal temp., dry, and smoke for 30-45 minutes.

My Favorite Cookbooks, Part 10, Terrines, Pates & Galantines

Shout out to: Omnivore Books on Food • 3885a Cesar Chavez Street • San Francisco, CA 94131
415.282.4712 • Hours: Mon-Sat 11am-6pm, Sun 12pm-5pm

It took me a long time to find this book in good condition.  I finally found it at Omnivore Books in San Francisco while on vacation.  The awesome owner, Ms. Celia Sack, had just gotten the copy in the day before our visit.  It was as if the tome itself knew who it's owner was going to be and was excited for the chance to become part of my collection.  Part of Time Life Books, The Good Cook Series, Terrines, Pates & Galantines, is the best text on it's subject that I've ever seen (in English).  I remember using it at Kendall College, photocopied notes sitting meat stained at our work stations while we hacked our way through the classics.

The best thing about Terrines... is the color, step-by-step recipes covering meat, vegetable & fish terrines, pates, and galantines & aspics.  It reminds me of Jacque Pepin's, Le Technique, in it's simplification of a detailed task without losing any specifics that would detract from the end product.  A perfectionist's book.  A labor of love.  I think for the next dinner I throw that I'll have to do some terrine-work.  The molds are getting dusty in my trunk.

Um, yes, I do have terrine molds in my car trunk, right next to the crepe pans.  Don't you?  No, I don't have a problem, and even if there was a 12 step program for it, do you think I have time with my Chef's schedule?  Who are you kidding?  :)